ΠΕΡΑ ΚΑΙ ΠΑΛΙ ΠΙΣΩ…
Επιστροφή στην πατρίδα λοιπόν και στην ελληνική γραφή. Θα χάσω πολύ σε ταχύτητα γραφής και –ίσως- αμεσότητα έτσι, αλλά χαλάλι… Ο οργανισμός μου πάντως ακόμα προσπαθεί να προσαρμοστεί στα νέα δεδομένα (περισσότερο στα διατροφικά παρά στην αλλαγή ώρας).
Αρχικά, ήθελα να αναφερθώ στις γενικές εντυπώσεις του ταξιδιού αν και δεν έχει περάσει και πολύς καιρός και κατά κάποιο τρόπο «είμαι ακόμα εκεί». Συνειδητοποίησα όμως ότι έχω αρκετό καιρό να γράψω και έχω αφήσει πολλά γεγονότα έξω. Όπως για παράδειγμα την ομολογία του Πήτερ στο μπαρ του ξενοδοχείου μας στην Mysore ότι μέχρι τα 18-19 είχε του ένα αρκουδάκι που το λέγανε Μπάση (Bassi, όχι τον τραγουδιστή). (Παρακαλώ θερμά όσους ξέρουν ή έχουν γνωρίσει τον Πήτερ να σχολιάσουν επειγόντως! Ευχαριστώ) Επίσης δεν έχω αναφερθεί στον καταπληκτικό μας ξεναγό (φανταστικέ ξεναγέ) ο οποίος πέρα από πολύπλοκες ιστορίες της ινδουιστικής μυθολογίας (ο Πήτερ ήταν σίγουρος ότι τις εφεύρισκε επί τόπου) είχε και μια περίεργη συχνοουρία και δεν έχανε ευκαιρία να πάει προς νερού του! Αυτό έγινε μια φορά που σταμάτησε να μας δείξει κάποιους ορυζώνες («βγάλτε φωτογραφίες…»), κατά την επίσκεψη σε έναν ναό («εσείς πάτε από κει κι έρχομαι κι εγώ…», ο Graham πάντως δεν έχασε ευκαιρία να τον φωτογραφήσει! Επι τω έργω!), και το κορυφαίο όλων, στο ξενοδοχείο κι ενώ μας περίμενε το τελευταίο πρωί για να φύγουμε. Πού είναι το περίεργο θα μου πείτε; Πουθενά αν είχε χρησιμοποιήσει την τουαλέτα του ξενοδοχείου και όχι τον κήπο…
Ορίστε, τώρα ξαναμεταφέρθηκα εκεί και όποια προσπάθεια άλλου σχολίου φαντάζει μάταια… Προτού φύγουμε πάντως συναντηθήκαμε και πάλι με τον Sri σε κλίμα φανταστικό. Μου είχε λείψει πραγματικά και πιστεύω και στα παιδιά αν και τον βλέπουν πιο συχνά απ’ ότι εγώ. Υποσχέσεις για ταξίδι στην Ελλάδα αφού οργανώνεται reunion για του χρόνου. Ο Sri δεν ξέρει αν θα τα καταφέρει αλλά υπόσχεται για κάποια άλλη φορά μαζί με την γυναίκα του (ουάου! Ήθελα να το γράψω αυτό για να δω πώς φαίνεται… δεν μπορώ να το συνηθίσω). Τα παιδιά (Nikhel, Nyat -ο τύπος που δεν θυμόμασταν το όνομά του δηλαδή-) μας συγκίνησαν και πάλι ερχόμενοι στο αεροδρόμιο για αποχαιρετισμό. Κι άλλες αγκαλιές και υποσχέσεις για επικοινωνία και επισκέψεις εκατέρωθεν. Κι ενώ ο Πήτερ έλεγε πριν μέρες ότι δεν θέλει να επιστρέψει λέγοντας χαρακτηριστικά “I ‘ve done India” εγώ πιστεύω πως κάποια στιγμή θα γυρίσω…
Αυτό που έκανε εντύπωση και στα παιδιά κυρίως πάντως πέρα απ’ όλα τα άλλα ήταν ο κόσμος. Πολύ ζεστός, εκπληκτικός. Και αυτό είναι που με κάνει να θέλω να ξαναπάω. Όσο πιο πολύ ταξιδεύω μου φαίνεται τελικά ότι αυτό είναι που έχει την μεγαλύτερη σημασία, το να γνωρίσεις τους ανθρώπους. Να βρεις τα κοινά σημεία (που στην περίπτωσή μας δεν ήταν και λίγα), να δεις τις διαφορές, να μιλήσεις, να γελάσεις, να χορέψεις μαζί τους. Δεν θέλω να υποβιβάσω την αξία του τόπου. Θα ήταν μεγάλο ατόπημα αν δεν είχαμε επισκεφθεί π.χ. το Ταζ Μαχάλ. Παρ’ όλα αυτά πιστεύω πως το τοπίο αντανακλάται και είναι αλληλένδετο με τους ανθρώπους όπως έχει πεί πιο πριν και με πολύ πιο ωραία λόγια από μένα ο Οδυσσέας Ελύτης.
Αποχαιρετισμός λοιπόν στην χώρα που με φιλοξένησε μισό μήνα και που δεν είχα κανένα πρόβλημα να μείνω κι άλλο τόσο –ίσως και πιο πολύ-. Αποχαιρετισμός και στα παιδιά με τα μεγάλα μάτια. Τα μάτια είναι το κύριο χαρακτηριστικό των Ινδών, μεγάλα και όμορφα. Σχεδόν καθηλωτικά. Επιβίβαση και απογείωση…
Επιστροφή από το Ινδικό φθινόπωρο στο καλοκαίρι και στην Ελλάδα που με υποδέχεται με καύσωνα. Δεύτερη ημέρα εδώ, μια ημέρα ολόκληρη στην θάλασσα και στην παραλία –κυριολεκτικά όμως. Θάλασσα, αέρας, καλή παρέα και ομορφιά ελληνικού τοπίου μόλις 30 χιλιόμετρα από την πρωτεύουσα. Νοσταλγώ και πάλι διακοπές στην θάλασσα – τελικά είμαι πολύ άπληστος και θέλω να τα έχω όλα! Η σκέψη της δουλειάς που με περιμένει σε λίγες μέρες δεν βοηθά ούτε στο ελάχιστο. Ας είναι… Αν περάσει και η μεγάλη φουρτούνα μέχρι το τέλος του Σεπτέμβρη μπορεί να γίνει κάτι, ποιος ξέρει… κάποιες σκέψεις…
Υπόσχομαι αρχειοθέτηση και οργάνωση φωτογραφιών με σκοπό την δημοσίευσή τους εδώ. Κάθε φωτογραφία είναι και μια ιστορία όπως και κάθε ιστορία φέρνει άλλη ιστορία. Θα προσπαθήσω να σχολιάσω όταν πρέπει, όσο πρέπει…
Αναμείνατε συνέχεια…
SHMERA GIORTH KAI SXOLH, EKDROMH KAI BOLTA OLOI...
Hmera ane3arthsias loipon shmera sthn India, kleinontas 59 kai mpainontas sto 60 etos ths ane3arthsias tous apo tous Agglous. H atmosfaira poly pio xalarh kai giortinh, oloi exoun bgei eite se estiatoria gia faghto h akoma kai ston panemorfo nao pou episkefthkame to prwi o opoios einai kai arketa palioteros apo to palati tou maxaragia (1200). H polh etoimazetai na balei ta kala ths ka8ws 8a paraolou8hsoume ki emeis se ligo thn fwtagwghsh tou palatiou tou maxaragia opou kai 8a epakolou8hsoun mousikes ekdhlwseis...
Pantws ston aera exei hdh arxisei na aiwreitai h epistrofh... Einai kai ligo ta gegonota tou Londinou pou mas kanan na milame gia tis pthseis epistrofhs mas (o Peter den 3erei akoma kata poso 8a mporesei na paei apo to Londino sto Endibourgo me thn pthsh tou) alla kyriws einai o kairos pou perna... Ousiasthka mas menoun 2 meres, ayrio kai me8ayrio...
Xtes to brady sto bar tou 3enodoxiou ta paidia milousan gia ta mellontika sxedia tous. Epistrefoun stis douleies tous alla erxoun kai allo 1 ta3idi mazi ka8ws 8a pane na parakolou8hsoun sto Belfast to mats B. Irlandia- Islandia. Egw arxisa na skeftomai ti me perimenei pisw apo shmera to apogeyma kai ekana kai kapoia sxedia sto myalo mou. Ennoeitai oti synexizontai ta asteia pou exoun arxisei sxedon apo tote pou bre8hkame. Ston Graham gia to baros tou kyriws (an kai o Peter exei pei kai alla) se mena fysika gia thn argoporia kai thn a3iopistia mou (mhn 3exname oti eimai Ellhnas). Malista molis twra ka8hse dipla mou kai blepontas pali to onoma tu ston ypologisth me rwtaei ti ka8omai kai grafw pali kai an grafw ka8olou gia mena h mono gi ayton.
O de Peter exei diafores psyxwseis. H mia einai me thn wra. Einai etoimos toulaxiston 10' prin thn kanonismenh wra kai arxizei na agxwnei kai ton allo. Kata t'alla ton koroideyoume me ton Graham gia thn emonh tou me ta lefta kai tous galazoaimatous. Den exei afhsei maxaragia gia maxaragia pou na mhn rwthsei ti kanei o gios tou kai pou brisketai twra.
O xronos mou omws teleiwnei kai to plhktrologio einai xalia, kyriolektika to xtypaw gia na grapsw. Shmera katebhka mono gia mish wra.
Na eiste kala. Xronia polla. Ta 3analeme
Bangalore, Mysore, enas AEKtzhs maxaragias, ieroi tayroi kai boltes sto bouno
Exw poly kairo na ananewsw to hmerologio mou kai eimai apisteyta pisw. Para polla pragmata exoun symbei tis teleytaies meres, apeires fwtografies exoun trabhxtei kai elaxistos xronos mou emeine gia perigrafes.Prwto kai kalytero gegonos gia na mhn 3exniomaste htan o gamos ston opoio xalasa 2 kai kati film parakalw, xwria tis pshfiakes fwtografies. Se ayto to shmeio 8a pw monaxa oti to olo ta3idi 8a a3ize akoma kai an ginotan mono kai mono gia ton gamo... Apisteyth empeiria... Pou den episkiazei omws ep'oudeni thn stenoterh gnwrimia mas me thn Bangalore toso sto "pub crawling" pou kaname monoi mas oso kai sthn "night out" pou eixame me filous ths Anus thn teleytaia mas nyxta ekei... Ti na pw? To mono pou mporw na pw einai oti 8a epistrepsw... H toulaxiston 8a to h8ela. Arkei h parea na einai akoma ekei. Perasame teleia!
Arxizw omws apo pisw pros ta mprosta, gia na apotypwsw tis pio prosfates sntypwseis. Exoume fygei loipon apo thn Bangalore kai 3anamphkame sthn "tour mode". Panw pou eixame 3esyni8hsei kai eixame piasei ton palmo ths polhs.... Alla as einai... Xalali. Afi3h loipon sthn Mysore meta apo ena ta3idi se dromo pou den 8ymize ka8olou Boreia India. Poly pio araiokatoikhmenos o Notos, ligoterh kinhsh, allo topio, pio prasino me kokofoinikes, zaxarokalama kai oryzones. Eyrwpaika h mallon eyrwpaizonta (mhn ta 8eloume ki ola etsi?) pragmata. Mexri kai kafe Coffee Day eixe ston dromo kai kaname stash! Oi odhgoi pio normal stis antidraseis tous. O kainourios mas odhgos dhladh, o Ravi, opote kapoios ekane blakeia ta elege ta gallika tou (se hremo tono bebaia alla kati elege). Se anti8esh, ston Bora kai elefantas na paei na se pathsei kai na to apofygeis teleytaia stigmh o odhgos 8a exei mia boudistikh hremia! Poly pneymatikoi an8rwpoi telika aytoi oi Indoi!
Afi3h opws elega pio panw prin me piasei h parla sthn Mysore, opou episkef8hkame to palati tou Maxaragia. Entypwsiako den lew alla 8elw na pw kati allo pou katalaba meta apo olh thn paramonh edw. Ola ta mnhmeia einai epoxhs apo 1500 h 1700 me 1900. Milame gia istories tou pappou kai ths giagias kai oxi gia Istoria. Ennow arxaia Istoria - na mhn pare3hgh8w. Apla twra molis syneidhtopoiw poso palia einai ta mnhmeia mas kai oti otan edw milane gia istorika mnhmeia einai meta-byzantina. Egw mexri twra to Byzantio to 8ewrousa poly prosfato... As exei. O maxaragias pantws prepei na einai megalos AEKtzhs mias kai gia emblhma exei ton dikefalo aeto.
Meta to palati tou maxaragia anebhkame se 1 apo tous 8 ierous lofous ths Indias opou sthn koryfh yphrxe enas naos kai kapou endiamesa ena agalma enos ierou tayrou (o 5os megalyteros ths Indias). Gia ton nao ti na pw, gyrw tou ginotan to synh8es panhgyri twn nawn kai epishs kai to strimw3idi mesa htan to gnwsto, ante pio mikro... Pate mia bolta se kamia panagia ths Thnou kai ta idia 8a exei ki ekei ypo8etw. Den 8elw omws na emba8ynw sto 8ema giati apla perigrafw, alla o Osho -pou 3anadiabazw twra- exei pei kai aytos polla panw sto zhthma twn organomenwn 8rhskeiwn. Ayto pou htan kalo sthn olh istoria htan o peripatos pou kaname katebainontas 300 skalia gia na pame ston Tayro. To skhniko 8ymize entona to xwrio mou kai malista tetoies meres me briskoun sxedon panta ekei opote eniwsa kai ligo san sto spiti mou... An kai kourasthkame meta apo mia hdh kourastikh nyxta o peripatos mas anazowgonhse ligo...
Kai mias kai leme gia kourastikh nyxta prepei se ayto to shmeio opwsdhpote na anafer8w sthn Bangalore. H polh fainetai oti einai entona anaptysomenh kai mhn exontas ton yperboliko tourismo tou Bora einai poly pio filikh ston episkepth. Meta thn prwth kourastikh hmera sta magazia kai afou eginan ta -fthna- pswnia (gia arxh phra 2 CD 1 mplouza kai 4 ma3ilaro8hkes kenthmenes me strasakia oso 8a agoraza 1 cd sthn Ellada...) htan h wra na paroume to dromo gia tis pub! H dia8esh mou pesmenh kai katsoufiasmenh logw kourashs alla, opws syxna symbainei, h synexeia htan entelws diaforetikh.
Prwth stash -as ein' kala to lonely planet- Peco's. Apisteyth pub. Underground oso prepei, omorfh diakosmhsh, klasika rock tou 60 k 70 me idiaiterh adynamia stous Pink Floyd. 5 kommatia tous epai3e bazontas synexomena ta 3 teleytaia apo to "wish you were here". Ektos apo ayta to "roadhouse blues" alla kai alla blues kai rock kommatia htan arketa gia na ekto3eysoun thn dia8esh mou! 2 kanates mpyres 400 roupies, dhladh kapou 7 eyrw... Ka8olou asxhma!
Fygame gia to NASA. H polh einai poly pio wraia meta apo merika pint... Einai kai paraskeyh kai h wra einai h swsth:o kosmos einai olos e3w gia pswnia kai boltes. 3afnika ola fainontai pio oikeia kai filika... 8a h8ela na perpataw me tis wres alla dystyxws ftanoume sthn pub: Ais8htikh diasthmoploiou, polla black light, pio lounge mousikh kai skoteinh atmosfaira. Oxi tosos polys kosmos omws... Sto Peco's brhkame poly kosmo, kyriws neo, an kai eixe oles tis hlikies. Ektos apo emas, 3enoi htan kai 2 kyrioi apo to Dubai, filikotatoi, pou eixan er8ei kai aytoi gia ena gamo! Oloi erxontai gia gamous sthn India telika! Kai epishs apo oti katalaba kai apo tis epomenes meres ekei BANGALORE ROCKS! (yeah) Yparxoun polla merh gia na akouseis rock opote milame gia rock polh...
Kalo to rock alla eixame kai gamo. Oi teletes poly endiaferouses kai tis 2 meres alla den 8elw na epekta8w poly, den 3erw an exw xrono. Arkei na pw oti thn prwth mera ginetai mia teleth apo tous goneis ths nyfhs pros timh tou gamprou opou ousiasthka toy dinoun times 8eou. Thn deyterh mera exei arketa drwmena. Arxizei me mia teleth ston Ganesh 8eo ths tyxhs gia na pane ola kala. Meta e3w panta apo thn ai8ousa exei mia teletourgia sthn opoia o gampros paei me times stous goneis ths nyfhs pou ton ypodexontai kai epakolou8ei dialogos toy styl:
-8a pareis thn korh mou?
-oxi 8a paw kalogeros sto Agionoros
-parthna sou lew...
Telos pantwn me ta polla pei8etai kai symfwnei. Meta apo ayto kai enw h nyfh exei ektelesei kai ayth leitourgia kai perimenei sto eswteriko ths ai8ousas, oi goneis ths nyfhs plenoun ta podia tou gamprou o opoios me thn seira tou paei kai proseyxetai se 1 e3wteriko nao. Meta mpainei mesa kai epeita apo kapoies teletes tou fairnoun thn nyfh alla anamesa tous yparxei enas mperntes. 3afnika o mperntes peftei kai amesws petane ryzia o enas ston allo. Tis palies hmeres ayth htan kai h prwth fora opou blepontan o gampros kai h nyfh. Meta apo ayto anabetai h ierh fwtia ginetai to "septapodi" (septa=epta podi=bhma) opou orkizontai ousiasthka na einai mazi gia tis 7 epomenes zwes kai akolou8oun paixnidia tou typou "pounto pounto to daxtylidi" ta opoia syntonizei o Iereas kai eixan ton leitourgiko skopo na gnwristei to zeygari kai na fygei h meta3y tous amhxania.
Epekta8hka pali, alla ti na kanw... Ayto pou mou ekane entypwsh einai oti ola ta teletourgika ginontai se poly xalaro klima isws epeidh kratane ola toso poly (palia fantasteite htan 7 meres). Kai an sas fanhke asteios o dialogos pou para8esa pio panw htan akoma pio asteios apo oso ton perigrafw me gelia kai parembaseis apo tous parebriskomenous alla kai apo ton Ierea. H diadikasia loipon tou gamou pou palia kratouse toses meres htan gia na proetoimasei psyxologika to zeygari gia to gegonos. Tote malista pou den gnwrizontan kan eixe megalh shmasia toso h proetoimasia oso kai h gnwrimia. Sthn nyfh legane synexws "twra 8a er8ei o antras sou, prepei na eisai etoimh gi ayton..."
Meta to telos tou gamou eipame na ton giortasoume "the western way", dhladh se 1 pub me mpyres mias kai alkool kai kreas den epitrepontan ston gamo. Parola ayta ta faghta htan plousiotata kai apisteyta me foberh poikilia faghtwn kai glykwn. Kai mias kai eimastan oi attraction tou gamou mas peripoih8hkan idiaiterws kai mas zhthse kai sto thlefwno o diey8hnths tou catering na mas rwthsei pws mas fanhke to fai!!!
Fygame gia to Peco's loipon opou ontas Kyriakh apogeyma eixe xalarwsei arketa thn mousikh periorizomeno se mplouzies kai poly kalo soft rock. Oxi oti kalytero gia na mas krathsei 3ypnious. Oute kai h ka8ysterhsh 1 wras tou Nikhel me thn Mini boh8hse... Eytyxws hr8e ligaki nwritera o allos filos tou opoiou dystyxws kaneis den katafere na sygkrathsei to onoma kai perase kapws h wra sta coffee day...
Fygame loipon gia 1 anoixto baraki ston 10 orofo opou htan skepasto mono me tentes kai htan sxedon adeio. H broxh pou arxise mas xalase akoma ligo alla kai pali h synexeia mas apozhmeiwse plhrws. H mpyra arxise na reei, h plakes edinan ki epernan kai o kosmos arxise na ftanei! Ta paidia ola tous api8ana me poly xioumor. Oloi sto metaptyxiako ths Anas opote anapofeykta arxika milhsame gia ta sxedia tous... Sxedon oloi 8a fygoun apo thn India kai 8a einai krima na xalasei tetoia parea alla ti na peis... An kai h Mini eprepe na fygei nwris oi ypoloipoi meiname, hpiame, xorepsame, bgalame fotos, kai sto telos h nyxta katelh3e me emena kai 2 indous na xoreyoume xasaposerbiko se ry8mous disco kai na fwnazoun "ela" kai "opa"!!! Kai epishs meta apo ayth thn bradya 8ymh8hka oti..... 8elw na xorepsw, mou eixe leipsei! Ekei o kosmos xoreyei poly!
To telos tis bradyas grafthke me agkalies kai yposxeseis gia epikoinwnia... Ap'oti eipan ta paidia den mas phgan kan sta swsta merh ths Bangalore opote epifylassomaste gia allh fora! Egw xwris distagmo lew oti 8a 3anaphgaina aneta alla kai oti einai poly krima pou den eixame liges akoma hmeres ekei... O Peter eixe me8ysei elafrws kai oi atakes sto rickshaw tou gyrismou edinan ki epernan. Enw ta paidia eixan pazarepsei xwris emas kai ri3an thn timh stis 12o roupies (meta opws leei kai o Graham petaxthkame apo tous 8amnous kai mphkame) o Peter eipe na dwsei 150: "I'll pay him more because I'm happy". Atakas to tropario, na mhn 3exasw kai thn allh pou peta3e otan h Mini ton rwthse an pinei mono mpyra olh thn wra kai apanthse: "No, we had some water at the wedding"!
Ayta gia thn wra... Prepei na faw kiolas...
Na prosexete tous eaytous sas, xronia polla gia ayrio. Edw einai hmera ane3arthsias kai me8ayrio "Krishna Day" opote xronia polla kai se mas
Sas xairetw kai sas aspazomai... Anameinate synexeia
SPITI MOY SPITAKI MOY...
H opws 8a elegan ki edw akoma home sweet home...
Epistrofh sthn Bangalore loipon... Ayth thn fora apo to terminal twn eswterikwn pthsewn kai apolyta e3oikiomenoi me thn indikh pragmatikothta. An laboume ypopsh oti hmastan sta pio touristika merh kai ftasame se mia oxi kai toso touristikh polh mporei na pei kaneis oti 3erame ola ta kolpa.
Katey8eian loipon gia ena prepaid-taxi ta opoia einai kratika kai exoune sta8eres tarifes tis opoies proplhrwneis (profanws). Epishs oi odhgoi einai poly pio normal... Sou leipei bebaia ayto to kati twn odhgwn twn asprwn ta3i alla, tina kaneis???
Syneidhtopoiw oti einai h prwth fora pou kanoume ton dromo aerodromio-spiti hmera kai xazeyw gyrw gyrw. H kinhsh fainetai pio fysiologikh thn hmera an kai akoma arketh enw ta kornarismata 8ymizoun ligo A8hna se wres aixmhs an kai perissotera... Ayto pou 8elw na pw basika einai oti meta ta e3antlhtika tour kai thn ftwxh ypai8ro ston Borra, h Bangalore 3afnika fainetai poly ma para poly oikeia.
8a mas fanei akoma pio oikeia otan apofasizoume na kateboume sto kentro. Phrame ena "rikshaw" loipon kai fygame gia MG road. Ta trikykla exoyn poly plaka kai to ta3idi mas kosthse peripou 50 roupies kai sxedon ena misawro apo ton xrono mas. To kentro exei eyrwpaiko aera. Megala magazia ta opoia synyparxoun me mikrotera katasthmata polys kosmos ston dromo, poly kinhsh kai ston dromo. 8a mporouse kai pali na einai dromos ths A8hnas... Prospername ta emporika kai pame katey8eian gia faghto se estiatorio pou proteinei to lonely planet. Kai ti faghto! Fagame sthn indikh "ladokola"! Pou den exei fysika ladokoles alla megala mpananofyla panw sta opoia serbireis to fai pou 8a sou feroun. To menou wraiotato: kotopoulo kebab (mpoukitses mikres), arni thganito, armi "biriyani" (pou einai basika arni me ryzi kai diafora mpaxaria -3exwrisa kai thn kanela mesa- kai kremydia), "biriyani" laxanikwn kai laxanika me saltsa. Ola poly kaytera. Ola poly nostima. Logariasmos, ligo katw apo 500 roupies. Afhnoume 600. Dhladh 3 kai kati eyrw to atomo! Ka8olou asxhma
Grammh katey8eian gia ta coffee day pou einai dipla kai systegazontai se 1 megalo bibliopoleio - espresso kai glyko epibalontai meta apo to kalo geyma-. To bibliopoleio 8ymizei entelws glaskwbh... Pairnw ena biblio tou osho gia 50 roupies (oute 1 eyrw) kai xazeyw ta cd ta dvd kai ta vcd. Ayrio 8a pswnisw cd, exoun kai xamhles times. Ayta tou indikou top10 oute 3 eyrw to cd!
Shmera loipon hr8e to ayrio. Xtes h nyxta ekelise se mia psiloparakmiakh gia ta gousta mou pub. Prwi prwi loipon mphkame pali sto rickshaw mas kai ftasame sto kentro. H agora stis 10 para molis arxize na 3ypnaei. Mphkame sto coffe day opou mas kalhmerise to prwsopiko -prwtoi pelates ths hmeras-. Capuccino kai glyko kai fygame gia ta magazia kai gia boltes. Shmera eimaste anetoi kai xalaroi kai mallon 8a perasoume olh thn mera e3w. Ograham diabase ta nea gia tous tromokrates tou Hethrow sto internet enw egw me ton Peter piname ton kafe mas. Htan h seira tou Graham na exei stomaxikes diataraxes (prwtos hmoun egw) alla einai kalytera enw o Peter pou exei glitwsei mexri stigmhs nomizw oti exei arxisei na ais8anetai kapws...
Exei arxisei omws na mou fwnazei kiolas giati 8elei na dei ta mail tou kai aytos... Kalytera na fygw!
Kalh sas mera, epetai synexeia!
KORNES BAZAAR KAI TRIGWNA (oxi panoramatos..)
Teleiwnei loipon to ta3idi ston Bora, kai liges wres prin 3ekinhsoume nyxterino ta3idi gia na piasoume thn prwinh pthsh apo to Delhi gia thn Bangalore 8a epixeirhsw na grapsw mono liga pragmatakia...
Ennoeitai oti h empeiria tou ta3idiou den einai oloklhromenh an den kaneis toulaxiston 1 road-trip... Kai arxisame apo ta malaka pairnontas ton "aytokinhtodromo" apo to Delhi sthn Agra. O dromos 2 + 2 lorides ypo kanonikes syn8hkes 8a htan poly kalos. Omws h Indikh ypai8ros fainetai na einai ki ayth arketa pyknokatoikhmenh... Kai malista stous aytokinhytodromous kykloforoun akoma pio "perierga" oxhmata apo oti stis poleis... Tetra8esies Vespes (ennow me 4 atoma, oxi 8eseis, etsi???) trikykla (rickshaw) pou mporei na exoun apo 10 atoma mexri 15 atoma+10 kardares gala, leoforia dekaeteias '50 gemata, kai jeep pou exoun pio poly kosmo apo ta teleytaia... Prwth fora mou eida an8rwpous pou goustaroun na tous kornaroun. Eipa kai pio prin oti h korna einai aparaithto a3esouar an 8es na odhghseis alla den htan mexri prosfata pou eida tis epigrafes pisw apo leoforia, forthga kai trikykla "horn please", "blow horn", "signal please", mexri kai protropes na xrhsimopoieis siniala me ta fwta thn nyxta. Kai ola ayta zwgrafismena kyriolektika sto pisw meros me diaforous syndiasmous xrwmatwn (aytos ths indikhs shmaias htan isws o pio dhmofilhs...)
Se ayto to shmeio me megalh mou lyph sas plhroforw oti synexizetai h "no photo policy" tou blog logw anwteras bias alla yposxomai plousia photostory to argtero molis epistrepsw...Synexizw loipon me mia syntomh anaskophsh tou "xrysou trigwnou" (Delhi- Agra - Jaipur) ka8ws den exw kai poly xrono kai eimai arketa kourasmenos apo olh thn mera. H malon oxi thn anaskophsh para ta pragmata pou mou kanan thn megalyterh entypwsh...
Prwta - prwta sthn Agra, to Taj Mahal... Oti kai na pw einai ligo gi ayto den 8a prospa8hsw na to perigrapsw oute sto elaxisto. E3allou exw xalasei isws panw apo miso film ekei... Ayto 8a pw monaxa: einai merika ktismata pou se ypoballoun, oxi mono me thn megaloprepeia h apla thn parousia tous alla kai logw ths energeias tou topou ston opoio einai xtismena. Ayto to eixa niwsei entona mexri twra sthn akropolh, toso panw oso kai gyrw apo ton iero braxo. Akribws to idio eniwsa kai sto Taj. Eidika thn prwth mera pou phgame na to doume apo thn allh ox8h tou potamou ston opoio htan xtismeno. Oloi swpasame gia ligo kai apla koitousame. Oxi mono emeis, alla kai alloi touristes pou htan gyrw. Akoma kai oi ntopioi pou poulousan kartes ekei (den htan kai para polloi) den eixan thn synh8ismenh epimonh allwn synadelfwn tous synais8anomenoi toso thn ierothta tou topou oso kai thn dia8esh mas.
Edw prepei na pw oti to Taj Mahal, ena mousoulmaniko ktisma, einai xtismeno stis ox8es enos apo tous ierous (4 nomizw) potamous tou Indouismou. Liga metra pio katw apo to Taj yparxei Indouistikos naos o opoios an kai poly mikros sou pro3enei kai aytos deos. Kai ayta synyparxouna armonika, xwris kanena problhma se ba8mo pou suo fainetai apolyta fysiko. Genika h India einai xwra megalhs 8rhskeytikhs anoxhs, h toulaxiston aythn thn entypwsh dinei ston episkepth ka8ws kapoioi naoi malista einai misoi Mousoulmanikoi misoi Indouistwn!
Kata t'alla h Agra einai para para poly ftwxh polh, alla me kosmo o opoios einai eniote poly filikos stous 3enous. Genika, pantou ektos apo tous zhtianous kai ta milounia an8ropwn pou 8eloun na sou poulhsoun pramata yparxoun polla paidia h allos kosmos pou apla sou xamogelane kai lene "hi" h "bye". Exw metaniwsei pikra pou den milhsa ston geronta me to mousi pou emene sto parapotamio spiti akribws apenanti apo to Taj kai me xairethse me mia ypoklish ki ena ka8arotato "namaste" (indikos xairetismos pou shmainei eirhnh mazi sou). H biasynh twn synta3idiwtwn mou, to geniko klima dyspistias kai to perasmeno ths wras, dystyxws me parasyrane...
Meta nthn Agra h Jaipur htan h epistrofh sthn megaloupolh pou mporw na pw oti mou eixe lypsei kapws... To 3enodoxeio -ena panemorfo anakainismeno spiti- eixe mexri kai pisina. Mia boutia thn teleytaia mera htan epitaktikh. Pantws h diadromh gia thn jaipur mesa apo to rajastan an kai kourastikh (4-5 wres gia peripou 250 km) htan apokalyptikh. Pote mou den exw dei pio ektyflwtiko roz kitrino kai portokali apo ayta pou eida sthn rajastanikh ypai8ro. Ekei pou den to perimeneis, ki enw to topio einai monotono -prasino kai kafe-, mia mono morfh me polyxromo sari ftanei gia na sou kopsei thn anasa. H jaipur pragmatika polyxromh me ektyflwtika saria kai pasmines. Ki epishs polla bazaar, me diafores times kai poly xwro gia pazarema... Mporei na pazarepseis kati sthn mish timh kai na to exeis parei pali triplasia apo oso kostizei (e3artatai apo to pou exeis mpei... kai... oxi oxi den 3erw kanenan pou na to epa8e! :-) )... Dystyxws oi dytikoi mou filoi apo pazaria den skampazoun... Kai molis arxisa na kanw ena gia ton Peter pou agoraze poukamisa apo bambaki kai meta3i, enniwse abola kai to stamathse amesws... Eilikrina pisteyw oti toulaxiston se ayto to meros den exei nohma na agorazeis xwris na pazareyeis... Xanetai kapoio kommati ths ierotelestias... As einai... Egw pantws to diaskedasa arketa, ews poly 8a elega.
Ayrio loipon petame gia Bangalore kai niw8w anakoufismenos pou teleiwnei ayto to arketa entono ta3idi me tour, 3enagous pou se pane se magazia apo opou pairnoun promh8eia gia na pswniseis, kai paramonh se diafora 3enodoxeia.
Pantws phrame doro gia ton Sri. Ena marmarino piato diakosmhmeno me thn texnikh me thn opoia ftiaxthke to Taj -me en8etous dhladh sto marmaro hmipolytimos li8ous-. Elpizw eilikrina na tou aresei kai aytounou kai ths Anas.
Niw8w san na gyrizw spiti, kyriws giati den 8a exoume programma gia ligo...
A! Epishs anypomonw na dw ton gamo...
Feygw giati exei arxisei show me marionetes kai tympana kai tragoudi sthn aylh tou 3enodoxeioy. Ektos apo tous hmipoliutimous li8ous fainetai oti kai to kouklo8eatro apotelei paradosh ths perioxhs...
Namaste, anameinate synexeia...
INDIA: BORAS - NOTOS, KAI KAPOIA FAOUL... (English version below)
loipon...
3erw oti exw yposxe8ei fotogtrafies se ayto to blog se poly kosmo alla pros to paron no photos no cry...
Den ftaiw egw pantws (monaxa)... To internet edw einain poly argo opote den mporw na anebasw kamia foto. Epishs exw 3exasei kai ton fortisth ths mhxanhs alla elpizw na mhn to eidate! parola ayta yparxei mpataria gia fotos opote an bre8ei kati kalytero se syndesh yposxomai na prospa8hsw.
H8ela ayto to site na einai kyriws ena fotografiko hmerologio alla mias kai apeteixe ayto 8a sas e3istorhsw kapoia pragmata, elpizw na mhn sas peirazei. Epishs h anagkasthkh xrhsh twn greeklish 8a me kanei ligo pio ameso kai ka8hmerino apo to prohgoumeno post.
Afi3h loipon sthn Bangalore meta apo 1 kourastiko ta3idi me 1 molis wra ypno. Topikh wra 11:50, oi germanoi kanan to 8ayma tous kai h Lufthansa einai sthn wra ths akoma kai sthn India! Swsta? Oooooxi... Dystyxws den yparxei eley8erh 8esh sto aerodromio kai prepei na perimenoume na fygei 1 aeroplano gia na parkaroume. To poso mikro htan to aerodromio to eida argotera. Na htan miso apo ths 8essalonikhs kai arketa pio palio? (toulaxiston fainotan pio palio) Gia magazia ekei mesa den to syzhtaw. Perimena kati parapanw dedomenou tou mege8ous ths polhs (gyrw sta 7 ekatommyria???) alla den einai kan h 3h h 4h megalyterh polh ths Indias an kai taxews anaptysomenh... Ema8a oti xtizoun kainourio aerodromio, na doume...
Ftanw loipon kata ta mesanyxta topikh wra alla prepei na perimenw 4mish wres gia na ftasoun ta paidia!!! Martyrio, skeftomai... 3 atoma perimenoume stis afi3eis dipla apo ton xwro aposkeywn opou yparxoun1-2 touristika grafeia kai ayto einai olo. San na mhn ftanei ayto mas bgazoun kapoia stigmh e3w astynomikoi giati den eprepe leei na eimaste ekei(???). En tw meta3y exw arxisei na egklimatizomai sthn India mias kai 2-3 ta3itzides exoun hdh er8ei na mou prosferoun tis yphresies tous kai arnoumai. Ektos aytou h Monique, pou htan ekei prin ftasw kai efeyge 9 h wra to prwi(!!!) an kai molis 2h mera ekei mou kata8etei thn empeiria ths.
Me kalh koubenta pernaei h wra erxontai kai oi pthsheis... Fysika me kana misawro ka8ysterhsh (opws mas eipe kai o ta3itzhs. British perimeneis??? Ftanei 4:35, dhladh kata tis 5 mallon!) Erxontai kai ta paidia! Xara megalh, poly kairo eixa na toys dw! Ton Sri ton perimenei hdh aytokinhto me thn mhtera tou kai thn melousa gynaika tou. Emeis mpainoume se 1 aspro (prosoxh, giati yparxoun kai ta kitrina) ta3i to opoio ypoti8etai 8a akolou8hsei ayto toy Sri. Loipon s'opoion paei popte sthn India proteinw mia bolta me aspro ta3i san kalosorisma (an kai prepei na pazarepsete arketa thn timh)! Den 8a pw tipota, alla h fatsa kai oi ekfraseis tou Peter sto mprostino ka8isma ka8ws kai oi prospa8eies mas me ton Graham na krath8oume apo ta gelia htan mnhmeiwdeis. Pera apo ton apisteyto tropo odhghshs pou kategrafei se videaki kinhtou, h xrhsh ths kornas einai ypoxrewtikh ka8e 10 deyterolepta! O Peter ta xreiasthke pantws kai gia mia stigmh nomizame oti eskypse gia na mhn blepei kai proseyxontan... Kaname la8os, ka8ws estelne mhnyma sto kinhto...
Ola einai kala otan synantas filous kai oi wres pernan eyxarista. Liges wres ypnou monaxa, gia na exoume oloklhrh thn mera mprosta mas. Apo tis 7 to prwi mexri tis 12. Thn allh mera htan mia gioprth mias 8eas ths ygeias kai episkef8hkame toso to spiti tou Sri opou fagame ay8entiko indiko faghto (apisteyto) oso kai to spiti ths Anas, ths melousas kyrias Sri! To fai htan kaytera prasina fasolakia salata, ryzi kaytero me 3ysmata lemoniou kai mango an 8ymamai kala, kati san salata kai gia epidorpio mango mageiremeno me gala kai kati san thganhta perixymenh me liwmeno boutyro. To spiti tou Sri pio paradosiako, ths Anas me emfanestates dytikes epiroes pou deixnoun thn tash pou yparxei sthn India. Parola ayta h bolta kai oi metakinhseis sthn Bangalore einai apokalyptikes. Ka8e 5 deyterolepta 8es na bgaleis kai 1 fwtografia, ka8ws blepeis skhnika omorfa, asteia (kyriws me tis synh8eies odhghshs ayto), diaforetika, xrwmatista! Perasame apo ka8e eidous perioxes kai ektos apo kala spitia eidame kai kosmo pou emene se aytosxedies skhnes ftiagmenes apo rammena yfasmata!
Telos pantwn, afoy eidame kai sta 2 spitia tis prosfores kai thn afierwsh sthn 8ea (bgazontas kai ta papoutsia mas) fygame ston kentriko dromo gia pswnia (h8ele na kanei kai o Sri) kai ka8isame sthn megalyterh alysida kafe pou protimane kai oi Indoi foithtes "Cafe coffee day". Htan mia poly kalh eykairia na gnwrisoume kai thn Ana h opoia einai sympa8ithkotath kai poly glykia. Kanoun ena poly kalo zeygari me ton Sri... Eytyxws... Apo thn allh einai kai deytera 3aderfia kai gnwrizontai sxedon apo panta!!! To brady eixe faghto sto pshlotero (h mallon deytero pshlotero) ktirio ths perioxhs, sto estiatorio tou 13ou orofou me thn wraia 8ea! Entelws dytiko styl me indikh chill-out mousikh, wraio periballon kai mpyra kingfisher! Poly kalh kai se mpoukalia twn "quart" (640 ml peripou). Hr8an kai 1 filos kai 1 filh ths Anas kai perasame ekplhktika. Niwsame oti fygamemolis to party anabe (h mousikh eixe hdh alla3ei se gnwsta kommatia ten queen inxs five young cannibals etc) alla ta 3hmerwmata eixame ta3idi gia Delhi enw o Sri den eixe koimh8ei ka8olou! Krima pantws...
Ta 3hmerwmata loipon kai enw eixame synennoh8ei na fygoume stis 5 apo to spiti o odhgos afantos!!! Tous lew xalarwste edw einai India, 8a arghsei ligaki. Loipon fainetai pws to misawro ths ka8ysterhshs edw einai tarifa! Sto 2olepto panw anhsyxhsame oti 8a xaname thn pthsh kai katebainoume trexontas kai boutame (sthn kyrioleksia) se 1 "rickshaw". Einai ta trikykla pou exoun 8eseis pisw. Panw pou 3ekinousame blepoume kai to aytokinhto mas opote o Peter petaei kai thn 8eikh ataka "follow that car" kai to akolou8hsame mexri pou stamathse e3w apo to spiti mas! Eytyxws giati akoma 8a ta3ideyame gia aerodromio me thn taxythta pou phgainame...
Twra eimai sto delhi kai mou teleiwnei kai o xronos. Eixame ena arketa plhres tour ths polhs alla den eimai kai toso xaroumenos pou mphkame s'ayto ton ry8mo tou tourista apo ekei pou o kosmos mas ebaze sta spitia tou kai pername mia pragmatikh geysh ths zwhs ekei.
Ayrio feygoume gia Agra, na doume to Taj Mahal! Prepei na einai ekplhktikh empeiria. Ta a3io8eata tou Delhi ta eidame kai fwtografhsame. Prwsopika mallon mou arese pio poly to pio aplo, to mnhmeio tou Gandhi.
Telos exw na pw oti h Indikh koultoura den einai kai toso makrya apo thn ellhnikh. Me liges meres edw exw arxisei na niw8w sto petsi mou kalytera giati apoteloume ayto pou mas legane sto sxoleio "stayrodromi anamesa sthn anatolh kai sthn dysh". Ekplhsomai poly ligotero apo tous dytikous mou filous toso apo thn megalh -einai alh8eia- kai trelh kinhsh, pernaw to dromo me kinhsh kai xwris fanaria paneykola, ta kornarismata an htan pio liga 8a htan OK pantws exw synh8hsei na akouw kornes ka8emera. Telos ama dw tainia bollywood opou sto telos pantreyonati, pragmatika "kati mou 8ymizei"...
Ayta gia thn wra apo mena. Yposxomai otan mporesw perissoteres fotos, pio liga logia.
Na exete oloi mia yperoxh mera, opote mporesw 8a sas 3anagrapsw!
Saturday,
August 05, 2006
India;
North, South and a few mishaps
Well,
I know that I have promised to many people to upload photos in this
blog, but for now, no photos no cry…
I
have to say, it is not (only) my fault… Internet connexions here
are very slow, so I cannot really upload any photo. Furthermore, I
have forgotten my camera charger (but I hope that you did not read
that!). In any case, there’s still battery for photos, so if I
manage to get a better connexion I promise to try.
I
wanted this to be rather a photoblog, but since this has failed I
will try to put down some things in writing, I hope you don’t mind.
Arrival
in Bangalore, after a tiring journey where I only got 1 hour of
sleep. Local time is 11:50 pm; the Germans did it again and Lufthansa
arrived on time even in India, right? Wrong! Unfortunately, there is
no free parking spot in the airport and we have to wait for another
plane to leave so we can land and park. Later on, I got to see
exactly how small the airport was. It must have been half the size of
Thessaloniki’s airport and quite older (or at least it looked so).
No sign of airport shops either. I was expecting something a bit
bigger given the size of the city (maybe around 7 million people?)
but it is not even the 3rd or 4th biggest city
in India, although it is up and coming. I heard that there is a new
airport under construction; let’s see…
So,
I have arrived around midnight (local time) but I have to wait 4 and
a half hours for the guys to arrive! It’s going to be a torture, I
am thinking. There are 3 of us waiting at the arrivals hall next to
the luggage belts where there are a couple of tourist offices and
nothing more. As if that were not enough, some police officers take
us outside because, they say, we shouldn’t be there. Meanwhile my
contact with the Indian culture has already started since 2 or 3 cab
drivers come to offer me their services, which I kindly refuse. On
top of that, Monique who was there before me and had to leave at 9 in
the morning (!!!) was telling me about her 2-hour experience there.
With
a nice chat, time flies and flights arrive… with about half an hour
delay, needless to say (as the taxi driver told us “Are you waiting
for the British flight? It is arriving at 4:35, which means maybe
around 5”). The guys are here! A lot of joy, I had not seen them
for a long time! A car is there for Sri already with his mom and his
future wife. We are boarding a white cab (mind you, there are also
the yellow ones) which is supposed to follow Sri’s car.
I
have to say, I would recommend a ride with a white cab in guise of a
welcome to anyone visiting India for the first time (although you
have to bargain the price)! I am not going to spoil the surprise for
you, but Petur’s facial expressions from the front seat as well as
Graham’s and my efforts to not burst into laughter from the back
seat were monumental. Apart from the driving itself (for which there
is video evidence), it seems that blowing the horn every 10 seconds
is mandatory! Petur apparently had enough since he was looking down
so that he doesn’t see in front of him, or so we thought. For a
moment we even thought that he was praying… Turns out we were
wrong, since he was simply texting.
Everything
is nice when you meet friends and time passes by pleasantly. We got a
few hours of sleep (from 7:00 to 12:00) so that we can enjoy most of
the day ahead. That day it was a day dedicated to a goddess of health
and we visited first Sri’s home, where we ate some real (and really
delicious) Indian food, and then Ana’s home, future Mrs Sri! The
plates we had were; spicy green bean salad, spicy rice with lemon
zest and mango if I remember correctly (?), another kind of salad and
for dessert, mango cooked with milk and something like a pancake
sprinkled with melted butter. Sri’s house seemed more traditional,
while Ana’s had obvious western influences representative of the
existing trend in India. In any case, strolling or moving around in
Bangalore is a revelation. Every 5 seconds you want to take a photo
since you come across many beautiful or funny sceneries (the latter
related mostly to driving habits), different and colourful. We passed
by all kinds of neighbourhoods and apart from nice houses we saw
people living in self-made stitched tents.
Anyway,
after watching in both houses the offerings to the goddess (taking
off our shoes of course), we hit it for the main street to do some
shopping (Sri wanted to do that too) and we sat down at the biggest
coffee shop franchise in India “Cafe coffee day”. Indian students
seem to appreciate it a lot. This was an excellent opportunity to get
to know Ana who seems very nice and sweet. They form a nice couple
with Sri. On the other hand, they are also second cousins and they
know each other since forever!
In
the evening, we had dinner on the highest (or rather the second
highest) building of the area, in the restaurant of the 13th
floor featuring a gorgeous view. It was a western style restaurant
with Indian chill-out music, nice ambience and Kingfisher beer! A
very nice beer served in “quart” bottles (640ml approximately).
Two friends of Ana’s joined us too and we had a great time. We felt
that we left just as the party was about to start (the music had
changed to famous songs by Queen, INXS, five young cannibals etc.)
but we had a very early morning flight to Delhi while Sri hadn’t
slept at all. It was a pity though…
Early
in the morning, and while we had arranged to leave the house at 5:00,
there was no sign of our driver whatsoever! I was telling to the guys
“relax, don’t worry, he will be a bit late, this is India”. It
seems that half an hour delay is the standard “tariff” here in
India. However when we passed the 20’ mark, we started getting
really worried that we would miss our flight. So we rushed downstairs
and we (literally) dove in a rickshaw, Just as we departed, we saw
our ride arriving and it was then that Petur threw the epic line
“follow that car”. And we did so, till it arrived again in front
of our apartment. Thank god, else we would have been still travelling
to the airport, given the rickshaw’s speed.
Now
I am in Delhi and I’m almost out of time (internet time). We had a
quite complete tour of the city, but I am not really thrilled to get
into my tourist clothes. Especially since before we were getting into
peoples’ homes, getting a taste of Indian life and reality. From
our sightseeing, I think I liked better Gandhi’s memorial, which
was the simplest of all sites.
Concluding,
I have to say that Indian culture is not so much further from the
Greek one. After spending only a few days here, I have started
feeling a bit under my skin what we were taught in history classes at
school, about Greece being “the crossroads where East meets West”.
I am much less surprised than my western friends by the crazy
traffic, I can cross the busy streets without any traffic lights
easily and I am used to hearing horns blowing in my everyday life,
although it would be nice if there were fewer of them here. Finally,
if I watch a Bollywood movie where they get married at the end it
really rings a bell.
That’s
it for now. I promise more photos and less words, when it will be
possible.
Have
an excellent day all of you, I’ll get back to you as soon as I can.
ΑΝΤΙΣΤΡΟΦΗ ΜΕΤΡΗΣΗ
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Φωτογραφικός αποχαιρετισμός στην Ελλάδα, τον ήλιο, το φως και το γαλάζιο
